I walked in and was greeted by the proprietor, as the only other person in the place, but the place had an old feel and a real atmosphere. The counter in front of me as I walked in was cafeteria-like, with the meat in water heated holding trays covered by tin lids, which made me a little skeptical, but I remained open. When the guy asked me how I was doing and what I wanted, his voice cracked like an old country western singer that you think only exists in the movies. This guy was for real, and my confidence in what he had under those lids rose quite a bit. I explained this was my third stop in a couple of hours, and that I just wanted a small plate of ribs, brisket and sausage. He served up all three and when I indicated I didn't want any sides, a look of disbelief passed his face as he sang/squeaked, "you DON'T want NO BEANS?". Nope. Next time.
As with the last stop, he offered no sauce, again, a nice sign of things to come. I asked for some anyway, and also like the last stop, it was average, though with a little more twang like he may have made it with some of the dripping fat from the meat and a little more vinegar than the last place, and wasn't really needed.
The brisket was some of the best brisket I've ever had. Perfect combination of beef and smoke flavoring, with an incredibly crisp and smokey crust hugging a layer of fat that put this brisket above all of the rest and most I've had, anywhere. This cut was clearly from the point, and I was more than happy with it. It had a fat content throughout it that melted with each bite, and brought it just to the point of maybe seeming greasy, but it wasn't. It was the most tender and moist a piece of meat could be without falling apart or being greasy. Said another way, it was perfect. No need to ruin this piece with sauce. The ribs showed as much talent and care as the brisket, with the same great crust, and the same tenderness and moistness that the brisket had. Not quite falling off the bone, but perfect in that it was almost there and still took a true bite to separate it from the bone. The crust didn't create a chewy portion either, it broke away from the rest perfectly with the meat. Like the brisket, no sauce needed. Sausage. Most likely not made there, but certainly smoked there, and I'd be shocked if it didn't come from this guy's own kill and if it wasn't processed down the road at Wenzel's or any of the other meet processing plants along 281. It was the perfect type of German style sausage that I love, and it didn't disappoint. While, like most sausage, it didn't need sauce, but sausage makes a good vehicle for a decent sauce, so I used it to eat what I had. Given the size of the plate the guy gave me, and my past two meals, I didn't think I could finish close to it, but it was all so good I ate every bite, and topped it off with what seemed like an only appropriate can of RC Cola from the cooler.
Bottom line, this place is worth hitting, skipping anything on the way in either direction. I'd go so far as to say it's worth making a special trip for if you're on the northside of Austin. I'll visit here a lot.
Alright, if you're with the health department, stop reading here, as I'd like to revisit the atmosphere in a little more detail.
First, while the country western singer was making up my plate, without beans, I decided to use the restroom. I reviewed the rules and regs while I was in there, and while I appreciate them being posted, presumably by him directed only at him (I can't imagine anyone else works there, but I'll find out in time), I'm not sure I agree with Lazy T's half-assed approach to hygiene...
Second, the place really was a throwback inside, with an old fashioned heating stove in the corner with a pipe leading out the ceiling (this was heating only, the smoking was done outside on the other side of the building in iron smokers) which clearly gets use as evident by the poking stick with one charred end leaning up against it. As quaint as this was, it appeared he saved the wood for the meat, as the pile of "fuel" for this thing was piled next to it, which, if I was in Scotland I might say was peat, but given the surroundings of this place I'm guessing it was...well, moooooooo.
Summary:
Atmosphere: small town Texas BBQ
Food: excellent, BBQ
Dog Friendly: yes
Crowd: can't say, was only me and Country Yodeler, so I can't say
What to Order for the First Timer: brisket, ribs and sausage, and if you want to appease the owner, beans
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